Interview by Kate Peña Ríos
Fashion can be interpreted in many ways - luxury brands, prêt-à-porter, fast fashion - but for me, fashion is every concept materialized in garments, footwear and accessories, and that is why I’m always amazed by how people are constantly reinventing fashion in so many levels, for it is a profitable industry that allows creatives to express their ideas and talent, and also keeps them updated by encouraging them to innovate and adapt to the market.
During this quarantine period, like everybody else, I’ve been spending more time in social media, since it’s now our mainly mean to communicate with the world; sometimes scrolling through Instagram becomes such a reflex, that you don’t even pay attention to what it’s in front of your eyes, but recently I’ve been positively surprised by the brands I came across with.
One of them is Antimusa, an emergent Mexican brand that flips the concept of design, landing into what its creative director, Gerardo, calls “No design”. 27 year-old Gerardo has explored another side of fashion relying on his instinct and creativity more than on a particular technique or method. You’ll find a clearer explanation of this interesting way of working along the interview.
Antimusa not only brings a new creative perspective but has also a social drive, questioning the traditional conception of femininity.
So I repeat what I said in the beginning, I’m always amazed by how people are constantly reinventing fashion, Gerardo is the prove of it.
First of all I would like to learn about you as a creative and designer.
Do you have a degree in fashion design? If it’s not the case, what got you interested in fashion?
I have a degree in Clinical Psychology.
Regarding the Fashion Industry, I’m self taught. I began as a model while I was younger, then I worked as a fashion stylist and editor in LA. Back in Tijuana, my hometown, I’ve been teaching fashion history and accessories design and elaboration at a local university. Also, I used to be a booker at a Mexican agency, both in Tijuana and New York.
Have you ever worked for a fashion brand (apart from yours)? If it’s the case, what were the most valuables learnings you got from that experience?
I kind of rescued a friend’s brand that was drifting. Then I got more and more creative and design presence and it was pretty obvious that all that new aesthetic was from my authorship. So after long talks we decided to split out and now both we’re doing our own by ourselves. We’re still good friends though
Was it always your dream to have your own brand?
If it wasn’t, what made you take the decision to launch it?
Not really, but I’ve always been waiting for everyone in my hometown to do what I would like to do. But that never happened. So I took a step forward and I started my own brand.
What do you consider to be 3 of the most important aspects to find inspiration for your work?
Everyday life, the past, and sexual ambiguity.
Now, I would like to get to know your brand -Antimusa- from your very own perspective.
What strikes me first about your brand is the name, Antimusa, how did you come up with it?
Well, I love Greek Mythology. “Musa” (muse in Spanish) means a woman who represents the inspiration of a male artist. And I think that no woman should be reduced to an asset of the male’s creative process. I want to create clothes that are not meant to sexualize the woman’s body. Neither to serve to achieve a pre-conceived femininity or a certain role in conservative society. That’s why I named my brand “ANTIMUSA”, it’s an antithesis of how a woman is supposed to dress.
The main idea of your brand is what you call “No design”; could you explain this term?
I’m not a designer, I do not design, I do not make any sketches or preconceive ideas. I just recollect old clothes, I rework them, I just use my intuition. During the process I choose if the best I can do is to cut out, deconstruct, paint or burn the piece. Every garment it’s unique and cannot be replicated.
Why did you decide to build your brand around this “No design” principle?
Because there’s already enough designers around.
Who do you consider to be your direct competition in the market?
I think that I’ll be able to answer that question when my brand has been established for a couple of years at least.
Could you explain to me the concept of your latest collection?
It’s actually my first collection. It’s a rise up of what our creative team perceive as ordinary, in order to pursue an extraordinary way of garment production. The inspiration has born from the constant feeling of isolation and the wanting to break free from the shell of depression and routine.
Apart from Antimusa, are you involved in another fashion project?
Not really, I’ve literally paused all my other projects to be 100% focused on this one.
Finally, how would you motivate your peer designers/creatives and the ones soon to be designers, to exploit their talents and achieve their goals?
Be true to yourself and your concepts, and your values. Even if it’s the end of the world.
Go check ANTIMUSA’s first collection on their website: https://www.antimusa.com/